OUD
silk mood

The species used in perfume is called cypriol, a cousin of papyrus, and belongs to the genus Cyperus. This herbaceous plant grows on riverbanks, especially in India. The fragrant molecules reside in its roots, which are first dried before being steam distilled. Its oil exudes a powerful dry, smoky and earthy wood scent, in the range of patchouli. Cypriol is often used to reconstitute an oud accord or to reinforce its smoky woody notes. It adds strength to some men's fragrances.

Its tall stems bearing yellow and white flowers resembling small daisies are familiar in Europe, especially on lawns or on the edges of ponds. This plant likes sandy soils; it is indeed abundantly cultivated in Mediterranean regions, including Egypt. While there are many varieties, the plant was already known to the Greeks who gave it its name, chamos, meaning "sand" and melos "the apple". This is because steam distillation of the flowering stems of Chamomilla Matricaria produces an oil with aromatic, floral, but also fruity notes of apple. The indigo blue color of its oil comes from the inclusion of azulene in its composition.

In perfumery, only two varieties of rose are used for their fragrant properties: rosa damascena and rosa centifolia. The Damascena rose or Damask rose's appeal lies in its highly distinctive honeyed accents and slightly spicy scent. Originally from Persia, this very old variety is the most used in perfumery. It is now cultivated in Bulgaria, Turkey or Iran. Different perfumed products, such as rose water, rose oil and rose absolute, are obtained by using various methods of extraction, each with their distinctive olfactory characteristics. Rose oil is obtained by steam distillation. The Bulgarian rose has fruity facets with hints of pear, lychee and raspberry.

The power and complexity of its musky, woody, leathery, smoky and honeyed scent is only matched by the mystery of its creation; largely random since it depends on the fungal infection of a Southeast Asian tree also known as Agarwood (Aquilaria). Only diseased specimens produce an aromatic resin that is distilled to obtain an oil. It is among the most sought-after ingredients in the East and in Asia, and is also one of the most expensive, resulting in poaching. This is why Francis Kurkdjian has chosen an Oud from Laos produced according to the principles of fair and sustainable trade. He combines its vibrant notes with intense flowers, spices and other woods for a bewitching sillage.